Honningsvåg – gateway to the northernmost point of Europe

Five degrees north of the Arctic Circle and the northernmost city in mainland Norway, Honningsvåg is a warm and welcoming refuge.

Situated on Magerøya island, this traditional fishing town offers delectable dining and natural phenomena aplenty, from the ethereal Midnight Sun to the ink-black Polar Night and, of course, the magical aurora borealis.

People have lived in the Honningsvåg area for thousands of years. The Old Norse name was 'Hornungsvágr': 'Hornungr' referring to the tall and hornlike peak near the town, and 'vágr', which means bay.

Early settlers were likely Sámi people (the indigenous people of northern Norway), reliant on fishing, hunting, and reindeer herding. By the Middle Ages, Honningsvåg had developed as a fishing village, thanks to the rich waters of the Barents Sea.

Fishing was the backbone of the local economy for centuries and by 1936, Honningsvåg was an established trading post with municipal status. But its peace and tranquility was shattered by World War II. German forces occupied the town and then destroyed it as they retreated in 1944 – a strategic move designed to disrupt Allied shipping routes. Somehow, the town’s church survived, and local people took shelter here.

After the war, Honningsvåg was rebuilt and gradually modernised. As more and more travellers were drawn to the remote allure of the North Cape (Nordkapp), Honningsvåg developed as a comfortable base for visitors from far and wide.

Today, Honningsvåg is a small, vibrant town. The harbour is still a focal point, and fishing, as well as tourism, remains a big part of life here on the Norwegian coast.

The Sámi bring reindeer to Magerøya for the warmer months and you’re likely to see the creatures roaming wild here in spring, summer, and autumn. September and October is an especially fascinating time to visit, according to local artist Eva Schmutterer.

“The reindeer walk from their remote corners of the island, gathering in larger and larger herds.” If you’re lucky, you might even spot them swimming across the Magerøya strait to spend winter on the mainland.

For its many visitors, the town is a popular tourist destination for those seeking to venture to the North Cape, the northernmost point of mainland Europe, with its expansive sea views towards the Arctic.

The summer months see a veil of ethereal light settle over Honningsvåg as the Midnight Sun beams a renewing energy on the town. People here spend their long summer days fishing, hiking, visiting cabins by the sea or in the mountains, picking berries, having barbecues and taking boat trips.

“It's also the time of the year to paint your house and do any necessary repairs. Summer is short and everything has to be finished before it starts to snow again,” says Eva. “You may see your neighbour standing on a ladder at 3am during a sunny night, giving his house walls a new coat of paint!”

Autumn brings splashes of colour to the landscape.

“Autumn is my favourite time of the year,” continues Eva. “In August, the green colours of summer are changing into all shades of golden, brown, orange and red. Though it's often already quite cold, the landscape looks warm and beautiful. Thousands of seagulls gather, sitting like huge white clouds on the hillside. Then, one night – I never catch them doing it, though I’ve often tried – they leave. The next morning the hills are empty and everybody knows autumn is coming to an end, and winter is round the corner.”

Visiting Honningsvåg in winter? Eva advises you come prepared. “You'll need good footwear, preferably spiked shoes or crampons. The streets and sidewalks are often covered in snow and ice, but if you walk slowly and carefully you’ll be fine. Walk like a penguin and you won't have any problems!”